处暑后这“二菜一汤”抓紧吃，润燥养肺，全家老少都舒服

处暑刚过没几天，早晚风里已经有了点凉意，可白天那股秋老虎还挺横，热里夹着湿，闷得人嗓子发干、身上发沉，吃饭也没了精神。这个时候最忌讳一上来就猛贴秋膘，烧烤火锅、大鱼大肉一顿猛造，脾胃先顶不住。老张这回说得很实在，处暑前后吃饭，关键不在贵，重在清润平补，少辛辣油腻，多吃莲藕、百合、银耳、山药、鸭肉这类白色食物，顺着时令吃，身子才不拧巴。

这篇就围着处暑饮食展开，重点不是讲大道理，而是把秋老虎还在发威时，老百姓家里到底该怎么吃说明白。原文给了三道很接地气的菜，莲藕薏米排骨汤、蒜蓉彩椒炒藕带、毛豆烧芋艿，都是菜市场一转身就能买齐的家常货，做法不复杂，重点落在润燥、祛湿、开胃、护脾胃上。背后的逻辑也清楚，处暑后暑热未退，燥气渐起，饮食不能再跟盛夏一样一味求凉，而要兼顾滋阴、健脾、少刺激，这才是老祖宗传下来的时令吃法。

说到处暑，很多山东老乡都懂，这时候屋里屋外看着没三伏天那么凶，可人最容易犯累。中医里讲，处暑以后天气从湿热慢慢往干凉走，口干、咽干、皮肤干、便秘，这些小毛病就容易冒头。现代营养学也能对上，夏末秋初人体水分流失多，出汗虽少了，但脾胃功能还没完全缓过来，太油太辣会增加消化负担。这个时候的吃法，讲究一个稳字，别让肠胃打仗。

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http://miso.hsfmg.com/Article/details/753286879.sHtML老张先提的莲藕薏米排骨汤，就很对路。莲藕是秋天的头牌，尤其八月刚挖出来的藕，脆嫩、藕香足，切开以后白白净净，看着就让人心里敞亮。古人早就夸过它，荷莲一身宝，秋藕最补人，这话不是白说的。莲藕富含膳食纤维、维生素C和钾，炖汤以后口感会变得粉糯，适合这时候润一润。薏米在民间常被拿来祛湿，排骨负责提鲜，三样放在一起，汤不油，味道也不寡，家里老人孩子都能喝。

做这锅汤，最怕的不是没味道，是把藕炖得发黑、发硬，或者汤面上浮一层油，喝两口就腻。老张说得细，莲藕切块后要泡在加了白醋的清水里，能防止氧化变黑；排骨先焯水，浮沫撇干净，汤才清亮。薏米提前泡两小时，炖的时候更容易出味。先炖排骨和姜片40分钟，再下莲藕和薏米继续炖30分钟，藕能炖出粉感，薏米也不会夹生。最后只放一点盐，别让调料盖住了藕香。山东人做汤常讲究一个实在，汤要能喝出食材本身的味儿，不靠乱七八糟的佐料撑场面。

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https://github.com/ryangregory402/tyyvsh/wiki/xhfdn21809第二道蒜蓉彩椒炒藕带，更像是处暑桌上的一口脆劲儿。藕带这东西，很多城市里的人未必天天见到，可在夏末秋初的菜市场里，它是个稀罕又便宜的时令货。它是莲藕的嫩茎，长在水下，细嫩、脆爽，采收期短，过了这阵子就老了。因为生长环境相对封闭，虫害少，老百姓买起来也放心。藕带下锅要快，火候稍一拖拉，脆感就没了，嚼着像老筋一样没精神。

这道菜的做法很简单，难点就一个字，快。藕带斜切成段，先泡白醋水，能防止发黑，也能保持一点脆感。蒜末下锅炒香，藕带大火快翻，彩椒最后放，几下就出锅。彩椒一红一黄，颜色一搭，桌子立马亮堂起来。吃起来也是有层次的，蒜香先冲上来，接着是藕带的脆，再来一点彩椒的甜，嘴里干巴巴的感觉一下就下去了。夏天刚过去，很多人胃口还没回来，这种清爽的小炒，比大鱼大肉更容易让人多夹两筷子。

说起藕带，我还得插一句，江浙一带、湖北一带、山东部分水乡菜市场里，夏末秋初都常见。它在民间一直有个特点，便宜、鲜、快手，适合家里做饭的人。咱山东爷们儿平时下班回家，孩子写作业、老人等着吃饭，哪有空在灶台边折腾半天。三分钟快炒，盘子一端，饭就跟着上桌，这种菜最得人心。别看它朴素，真到了这个季节，脆口的菜比肉更下饭。

第三道毛豆烧芋艿，属于那种看着低调，吃着顺口的菜。毛豆是夏末秋初最常见的豆类之一，鲜嫩时带着一股豆香，先焯水能保住翠绿，不至于发黄。芋艿在南北方都有人爱，粉糯、绵密，蒸熟以后入口细软，特别适合脾胃虚一点的人。传统饮食里讲夏吃豆，胜似肉，不是说豆子真能顶替肉，而是说豆类蛋白质和膳食纤维丰富，搭配谷物、蔬菜，吃起来更平衡，不容易腻。

芋艿这东西还有个特点，得会处理。去皮容易手痒，老张提醒戴手套，这是真经验，不是嘴上说说。芋艿先蒸20分钟，熟透后再切块，炒的时候先煸一下表面，香气能出来，再加水焖几分钟，让它变软。最后放毛豆一炒，撒点盐和白胡椒粉，稍微勾个薄芡，汤汁裹在芋艿和毛豆上，吃着就顺。很多家里老人牙口一般，孩子又挑食，这道菜刚好合适，软糯不费劲，滋味也不淡。

这三道菜放在一起，路子其实很统一，都是在处暑时节给身体减负。莲藕负责润，薏米负责祛湿，排骨提供一点荤香；藕带负责脆，彩椒负责鲜甜，蒜末负责提味；毛豆和芋艿一个清，一个糯，搭起来很稳。没有哪一道是重油重辣的狠菜，也没有哪一道非得摆大阵仗。它们共同的特点，就是食材普通，做法直接，吃进去舒服，不折腾肠胃。

现代人一到入秋，特别容易犯一个毛病，觉得天凉了，就得立刻上羊肉、牛肉、火锅、烧烤，似乎不这么吃就不叫过秋天。可脾胃这个东西跟咱山东人的脾气差不多，得哄着来。处暑刚过，暑湿还没完全退干净，突然大鱼大肉往里塞，胃里容易堵，舌苔也容易厚。北京中医药大学、广州中医药大学这些地方的科普也常提到，季节交替时饮食要从清凉转向温润，减少生冷刺激，适当增加含水分和膳食纤维丰富的食材，这和老张说的思路是对得上的。

山东人讲究家里有饭味儿，也讲究饭菜得接地气。处暑这几天，早上可以来点小米粥、玉米糁，晚上把汤和小炒端上桌，孩子吃得香，老人也不费劲。尤其是莲藕、毛豆、芋艿这种时令食材，价格不高，做法不难，营养也不差。家里做饭的人最明白，真正能天天做、顿顿吃的，不是餐厅里那些花里胡哨的菜，而是这种买得到、做得快、吃着顺的家常菜。

现在很多人一提养生就想到保健品，其实真没必要。处暑养生这事，最实在的办法还是回到餐桌上。少喝冰饮，少碰重辣，别老拿冰啤酒配烧烤去顶这个节气。把锅里的汤炖清一点，把盘里的菜炒脆一点，把主食吃扎实一点，饭后不撑，晚上不腻，第二天早上起床也不会昏头涨脑。身体舒服不舒服，往往就看这一口吃得对不对。

老张这套二菜一汤，说白了就是给处暑这股子闷热和干燥找个出口。汤润一润，菜脆一脆，芋艿和毛豆再压一压胃口，整个人就没那么燥了。家里有老人、有孩子的，更能感受到这种饭菜的好处，不冲，不辣，不油，端上桌就能吃。咱山东人过日子，不图虚的，就图一口热乎舒坦，吃完不难受，这就对了。