秋天的圆茄子别再炒了！炸成菊花茄子，孩子吃得停不下来

秋天一到，菜市场里那一筐筐小圆茄子，真是把人看得心里痒痒。个头不大，价格实在，皮薄肉厚，籽少水分也合适，拿来做菊花茄子，正是时候。很多人总觉得这菜像饭店大厨的手艺活，其实真不是神仙菜，关键就看选茄子、改刀、控水、复炸这几步，路子走对了，家里灶台也能做出像模像样的一盘。

这道菜最招人喜欢的地方，不是花哨，而是实在。山东人讲究啥，讲究看得见、吃得着、嚼着香。秋天的小圆茄子肉紧，炸出来外皮焦香，里头软和，花瓣一炸就舒展，像个小菊花开在盘子里。饭桌上摆这一盘，老人看着不费劲，孩子看着新鲜，吃起来还不腻，挺适合家里人凑一块儿吃。

先说选材，这一步要是走偏了，后面再忙活也白搭。做菊花茄子，最好挑秋天本地的小圆茄子，别贪大。老圆茄子往往籽多，果肉松，炸完容易塌，花型立不住。这个道理和老面馒头差不多，面发得不对，外表再圆也不瓷实。小圆茄子就不一样，拿在手里沉甸甸的，切开之后肉厚籽少，炸出来更容易保持形状，这点很关键。

茄子买回来，先洗干净，两头切掉，皮别削。很多人一上手就去皮，觉得茄子皮影响口感，实际上这皮就是菊花边缘，没它就少了那股子撑劲。茄子皮薄，炸一下颜色好看，还能把花瓣边沿撑出来。老家人做饭常说一句话，别把该留的给削没了，真是这个理。

改刀是这道菜最容易让人犯怵的地方。别怕，家里有筷子就能解决大问题。把茄子平放，底下垫两根筷子，刀刃被筷子一挡，心里就稳当了，不会一下切断。先竖着切细条，间距两三毫米，切到茄子四分之五的深度，底下留一厘米连着。再转个九十度，照样切一遍，十字花刀就出来了。切完以后轻轻一拨，茄子就像小伞一样散开，模样立马出来了。

这一步看着费事，其实熟了以后很快。厨房里最怕的不是麻烦，是心急。手一快，刀一偏，茄子就断了，花也不成花。山东老爷们儿干活讲究稳，切菜也一样，别着急，慢慢来，照着筋路走，茄子就听话。你看一个普通圆茄子，被这么一改，立马有了席面上的架势。

切好以后，别急着下锅。先放盆里，加食盐，再抓一把花椒拌匀，腌上半天。很多人做炸茄子，最怕油锅噼里啪啦乱蹦，就是因为茄子里水大。盐一上，茄子里的多余水分就慢慢出来了，花椒也会借着这段时间把麻香渗进去。这样做出来的茄子，不但更稳当，还自带一点麻香味，吃着不单调。

腌的时候，时间真不能省。半天看着长，其实是这道菜值钱的地方。水分出得足，后面炸的时候油花不乱飞，茄子也不容易回软。北方人做菜，很多窍门都藏在耐心里。你要是图快，最后出来的菜不是软塌塌，就是一股生水味，吃两口就没精神了。

腌够了，把茄子拿出来，双手轻轻挤干水分。这里也得有点轻重，不是跟拧毛巾似的死命一捏。茄条细，手一狠，花瓣就断，样子全毁。轻轻挤，挤到茄子蔫下来，不再往下滴水就行。这个过程像给人掸衣服上的土，动作大了反而不体面。

进油锅之前，油温也得拿捏好。六成热最合适，筷子放进去，周围冒细密小泡，这时候下茄子最稳。先把花头朝下放进去定十几秒，让菊花的形先站住，再整个放入锅里，中火慢炸。刚下锅别乱翻，不然花瓣容易散。等形状稳了，再轻轻晃锅，让受热均匀。

炸到整体金黄，先捞出来控一会儿油，再把油温升高，进行第二次复炸。这个步骤看起来多，实际上是脆口的关键。一次炸，外表容易带油气，放一会儿就回软。二次复炸，外皮更干，口感更脆，咬下去那一下，才像样。很多饭店做酥炸菜，靠的也就是这一手。老话说得好，慢工出细活，炸菜也是这个理。

菊花茄子出锅后，控净多余油脂，直接吃就很有味道。茄子的香、花椒的麻、盐的咸，混在一起，不用再加一堆调料。热的时候吃，外皮脆，里面软，凉一点也还行，尤其装进饭盒里，短时间不太容易塌。家里有孩子的，最知道这道菜有多省心，拿去学校或者单位，都挺受欢迎。

说到茄子，很多人第一反应还是红烧、烧烤、蒜茄子，山东人家里常见的做法也不少。可真要论秋天吃茄子，炸着吃有时候更带劲。茄子本身吸油，做不好容易腻，但菊花茄子因为先腌后挤，再复炸，反倒把油腻压下去了，吃起来比想象中清爽。家里有老人，吃这种外焦里嫩的做法，也比一锅油腻炖茄子更合适。

还有一点很多人容易忽略，就是茄子的品种和季节。夏天的茄子水大，秋天的茄子更瓷实。入秋以后，昼夜温差一大，茄子的质地也跟着变好，籽少，口感稳，适合炸、煎、烤。菜市场里一看见这种小圆茄子，别犹豫，买回来做菊花茄子，真不亏。老百姓过日子讲究当季吃当季的，这不是抠门，这是会过日子。

这菜还有个有意思的地方，就是特别适合家里有孩子的家庭。小孩挑食，青菜端上去常常不领情，可一旦做成菊花这个样子，先看见的不是茄子，是一朵花。山东男人人高马大，吃饭讲究实在，可到了孩子跟前，也得讲点巧劲儿。让孩子先愿意看、愿意夹，后面自然就愿意吃。蔬菜不是非得硬塞，做法对了，饭桌上的气氛都不一样。

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http://www.blog.bcxjs.cn/Article/details/2042236.sHtML我家里也常这样，做饭不光是填肚子，还是把一家人拢到一块儿。老人看着儿孙吃得香，心里踏实。孩子夹起一朵茄子花，咬得咔嚓响，嘴里还夸两句，这顿饭就算没白忙活。厨房里那点烟火气，很多时候就藏在这种小菜里，不张扬，但很顶用。

现在不少人喜欢点外卖，或者一到做菜就盯着大鱼大肉。其实秋天这一口小圆茄子，价钱不贵，做法也不复杂，真比很多花里胡哨的菜更有意思。你只要把切花、腌制、挤水、复炸这几关守住，菜就不会差。说白了，饭店那点门道，拆开来看，也就这么几步，没啥神神叨叨的。

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秋天这阵子，菜市场里小圆茄子正水灵，趁着便宜又好吃，做上一盘菊花茄子，放凉了给家里人带着吃，也挺合适。孩子念叨的时候做一盘，老人坐在桌边看着，一口一个，心里也舒坦。平平常常的日子，能把一盘茄子做得有模有样，饭桌上就有了热乎气儿。