这锅板栗烧排骨，是我在秋天最想显摆的一道菜

秋天一到，菜市场那个卖板栗的大姐就开始冲我喊：“妹子，新栗子到了，再不买就没了啊！”你说我能怎么办？拎着袋子就去了。回家路上又拐到肉摊，让老张给我剁了两根肋排。这俩东西往厨房一搁，我就知道，今天这顿饭，我家电饭煲又得加班了。板栗这东西啊，你光看它不起眼，但一炖到肉汤里，它就跟变了个人似的，又粉又糯，比肉还抢手。这道菜，我劝你趁周末赶紧做，不然错过了秋天这茬栗子，你只能对着菜谱干瞪眼。

一、先聊五毛钱的：为什么秋天做这道菜最对味

你们有没有想过，板栗和排骨这俩东西，为啥一到秋天就跟约好了似的往一块凑？我跟菜市场卖栗子的老陈混了三年，他跟我说了实话：秋天的板栗刚从树上下来，糖分足、水分少，你拿它炖肉，它能把肉汤里的油啊酱啊全吸进去，自己变得面面的、沙沙的。要是夏天的冷库栗子，炖半天还是硬邦邦的，跟小石子似的，白瞎了一锅好排骨。

再说排骨，夏天吃红烧的嫌腻歪，冬天吃又觉得不够热乎。就秋天这天气，不冷不热，胃口刚开，来一锅油亮亮的板栗烧排骨，既贴了秋膘，又不会燥得慌。我有个东北的朋友，第一次来我家吃这个，筷子一夹就停不下来了，最后拿汤汁泡饭，锅底刮得干干净净。临走跟我说：“这菜在我们那旮旯，能上婚宴。”

二、买食材这件事，我交过学费

我第一次做这道菜，大概是三年前。那时候刚学做饭，啥也不懂，去超市随便拿了盒排骨，又买了袋剥好的冷冻板栗。回家折腾俩小时，端出来一锅，排骨柴得跟木头似的，板栗碎得找不着影。我老公吃了两口，默默去厨房下了碗泡面。这事我记到现在。

后来我学乖了，排骨必须买猪肋排，就是那种一根一根的，带点白花花肥肉，别买脊骨，那玩意儿炖汤行，烧着吃能把你牙累掉。买的时候嘴甜一点，让摊主给你剁成三四厘米的小段，回家省事。排骨买回来别急着下锅，接一盆冷水，把排骨扔进去泡着，你去干别的，泡个半小时。中间换两回水，你会看见水慢慢从清变红，那就是血水被拔出来了。这一步做了，排骨想腥都难。

板栗我劝你们买带壳的，虽然剥起来麻烦，但你试试就知道了，冷冻板栗跟新鲜的比，差了十条街。挑板栗有个笨办法：拿手里掂掂，沉的就买，轻的八成是干的或者有虫。外壳要油亮亮的，别买那种发乌的。剥板栗我教你一招，拿水果刀在板栗平的那面划个十字，别划太深，划破壳就行。然后烧一锅开水，把板栗倒进去煮两分钟，捞出来趁热剥。壳和里面那层毛毛皮，一扯就下来了，特别爽。我每次都边剥边偷吃两颗，生板栗脆甜脆甜的，跟水果似的。

三、做法我掰开揉碎了讲，你再学不会我上你家教

第一步，给排骨去腥。 泡好的排骨捞出来，冷水下锅，扔几片姜、一截葱段、倒一勺料酒。开大火，慢慢你就看见水面浮起一层灰扑扑的沫子，那是血水和脏东西。拿个勺子耐心撇干净，别偷懒，这步做好了后面才香。水开后再煮两分钟，把排骨捞出来。记住用温水冲，别用冷水，冷水一激，肉立马缩紧，炖俩小时都咬不动。

第二步，炒糖色。 这步是关键，也是新手最容易翻车的地方。锅里倒点油，放一小把冰糖，开中小火。拿铲子慢慢搅，看着冰糖从大块化开，变成一汪黄水，再变成香油色，最后开始冒小泡泡。就现在！赶紧把排骨倒进去，快速翻炒。你会听见“滋啦”一声，白烟冒起来，每块排骨都裹上一层焦糖色。动作要快，火别太大，炒过了会苦。我刚开始做的时候糊过两回，整锅排骨黑不溜秋的，苦得没法吃。多试几次就有手感了。

第三步，炖就完事了。 排骨裹好色，扔几片姜、一个八角、一小块桂皮、两片香叶。再来两勺生抽、半勺老抽、一勺蚝油，翻炒几下，让酱香味出来。然后重点来了：倒热水，一定是热水，没过排骨。冷水会让肉瞬间收缩，前面功夫全白费。大火烧开后转小火，盖盖子，你就该干嘛干嘛去，炖二十分钟。

第四步，板栗出场。 二十分钟后掀开锅盖，把剥好的板栗倒进去。这时候再放盐，盐放早了肉也容易柴。盖上盖子继续小火炖十五到二十分钟。拿筷子戳一下板栗，能轻松扎透就行了。最后开大火收汁，看着汤汁从稀溜溜变成浓稠的酱汁，均匀挂在排骨和板栗上，油亮亮的，撒一把葱花，关火！

四、这菜到底好吃在哪，我跟你好好说说

先说排骨。 炖到位了，你用筷子夹一块，肉颤颤巍巍的，还没送到嘴边，骨头自己就掉下来了。咬一口，外层是酱香和焦糖的甜，里面肉汁“噗”地爆出来，软烂得几乎不用嚼。肥肉部分早就化在汤里了，一点都不腻。

再说板栗。 这可是精华中的精华。吸饱了肉汤的板栗，外面油润润的，咬开里面是金黄色的。绵密得像在吃栗子泥，但偶尔又能嚼到一点小颗粒，沙沙的口感。我每次做这菜，板栗都比排骨先抢光。我儿子拿勺子舀板栗拌饭，一口接一口，头都不抬。

味道上呢，这道菜是咸鲜打底，回口带着板栗自己的清甜。八角和桂皮的香味是若有若无的，像背景音乐一样，绝不抢戏。它不像红烧肉那么肥，也不像糖醋排骨那么张扬，就是踏踏实实的、温温柔柔的。我最爱拿汤汁拌米饭，那浓稠的酱汁裹着白米饭，一口下去，什么烦心事都忘了。

五、几个小窍门，你拿小本本记一下

1、板栗别太早放，炖久了全化在汤里，变成板栗糊糊，虽然也好吃，但卖相就没了。

2、收汁别收太干，留点汤汁拌饭，信我，你会回来谢我的。

3、炒糖色怕糊，可以把锅端离火口搅，颜色差不多了再放回去。

4、一次多做点，这菜第二顿热了更好吃，板栗更入味。我每次做一大锅，第二天带饭，同事闻着味都来问我妈是不是来了。

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