秋天一定要吃的8道蒸菜，营养不上火，润到骨子里，全家夸你会做

秋天一到，我这老毛病就犯了——嗓子眼儿干得像糊了层砂纸，嘴唇起皮，抹多少唇膏都白搭。我家老太太更绝，一到秋天就念叨：“别老想着煎炒烹炸，把锅烧得冒烟，那叫跟秋天对着干。”她说的就是蒸菜。水汽一上来，食材原汁原味锁得死死的，油盐少，火气降，营养还跑不掉。今儿这8道蒸菜，是我家秋天的保留菜单，从润肺的到养胃的，从孩子抢着吃的到没牙老太太都能嚼的，全都码齐了。跟着做，你家厨房也能蒸出一秋的舒坦。

第一道：南瓜蒸百合——秋日里的“润肺黄金搭档”

菜市场挑南瓜，我就认准那种皮发暗红、掂手里沉甸甸的，老板一看就知道你是行家——这种老南瓜，甜得正。回家削皮切厚片，铺在盘底。鲜百合掰开，一瓣瓣码上去，像给金灿灿的南瓜盖了层白玉被子。上锅大火蒸15分钟，筷子一戳南瓜就透。淋勺蜂蜜，撒几粒枸杞，趁热吃。南瓜肉用勺子挖着吃，绵密得像豆沙，百合微苦回甘，配在一起正好。我家那位一入秋就干咳，吃了两礼拜，半夜不折腾了。抽烟的、当老师的，每周蒸两回，比含润喉糖管用。

第二道：山药蒸肉饼——脾胃虚的人的“救命菜”

削铁棍山药可得长记性，戴手套！有一回我图省事光着手削，痒得蹦高，用醋搓了半天才缓过来。一半剁碎，一半切小丁，和三分肥七分瘦的肉馅搅一块。姜末、生抽、一丁点儿白糖，顺时针搅到起胶，再摔几下，铺碗里压成饼。中间挖个坑，磕个鸡蛋。蒸20分钟，肉饼嫩得跟豆腐似的，山药的黏蛋白把肉汁全锁住了。鸡蛋黄刚好半凝，拌米饭能吃两碗。秋天一补就上火的人，吃这个正合适——山药健脾，猪肉滋阴，汤汁清亮亮的，喝完胃里暖，嗓子不冒烟。

第三道：蒜蓉蒸娃娃菜——比炒菜香十倍的下饭神器

娃娃菜竖切八瓣，铺在泡软的粉丝上。蒜末分两份——一份热油爆成金蒜，一份留着生蒜的冲劲儿，混一起加蚝油、生抽、一丢丢糖调成酱。均匀浇上去，水开蒸8分钟。出锅撒葱花，再淋一勺热油激香。粉丝吸饱了蒜蓉汁和娃娃菜渗出来的甜水，滑溜溜往嘴里钻，我家孩子拿它当面条嗦。娃娃菜蒸完还脆生生的，咬下去汁水四溅。秋天大鱼大肉吃多了，这道往桌上一搁，保准最先光盘。

第四道：清蒸鲈鱼——秋日贴膘不贴油的体面菜

秋天的鲈鱼最肥，鱼眼清亮，鱼身厚实。处理干净，鱼背划两刀，塞姜片，淋料酒腌10分钟。盘底垫葱段，鱼身上再铺姜片。水开上锅，一斤的鱼蒸8分钟，关火再焖2分钟——这步不能省，鱼肉才嫩。倒掉盘里的腥水，换新葱丝、红椒丝，淋蒸鱼豉油，最后泼一勺滚烫热油，“滋啦”一声，鲜味全炸出来了。筷子一拨就脱骨，蘸豉油吃，嫩得舌头都想吞。鲈鱼补肝肾、益脾胃，贴膘不上火，老人孩子都合适。我家周末蒸一条，上桌就剩骨头架子。

第五道：莲藕蒸肉丸——咬一口会爆汁的秋日小丸子

秋天的莲藕脆生生、白嫩嫩，擦成细丝再剁几刀，和肉馅拌一起。葱花、姜末、盐、白胡椒粉、一个蛋清，搅上劲。搓成乒乓球大的丸子，底下垫片胡萝卜防粘。蒸15分钟，丸子里的藕丁还带着脆劲儿，肉汁被藕丝吸得饱饱的。咬开时千万小心烫嘴——那口汤鲜得眉毛掉。莲藕生吃清热，熟吃健脾，和肉蒸一块，解腻又清甜。秋天干燥便秘的，吃它比吃药舒坦。我婆婆牙口不好，就爱这口，说比纯肉丸好嚼。

第六道：芋头蒸排骨——香到邻居来敲门的硬菜

荔浦芋头切块铺碗底，一定挑粉的，蒸出来才绵。排骨泡去血水，豆豉、蒜末、生抽、蚝油、淀粉抓匀，腌半小时。排骨码芋头上，腌料也倒进去，上锅蒸40分钟。芋头吸足排骨油脂和肉香，粉粉糯糯，舌头一抿就化。排骨脱骨，豆豉咸香渗进每丝肉缝。这菜是秋天进补的“隐藏王者”——芋头补中益气，排骨滋阴润燥，汤汁拌饭，孩子多吃半碗。有一回我蒸这个，对门大姐真来敲门问做的啥，说楼道里香得她坐不住。

第七道：鸡蛋蒸豆腐——三块钱搞定的嫩滑天花板

内酯豆腐倒扣盘里，划成小块。两个鸡蛋加等量温水打散，撇浮沫，倒豆腐上。蒙保鲜膜，扎几个孔，中小火蒸10分钟。蒸好的蛋羹像布丁晃悠悠，豆腐藏底下，勺子舀起来直颤。淋生抽、几滴香油，撒虾皮和葱花。挖一勺拌米饭，滑溜溜就咽了。秋天早上没胃口，或者晚上不想吃太油腻，这道五分钟备料、十分钟出锅。蛋白质和钙全有了，比喝牛奶实在。我有时候偷懒，晚饭就蒸这一盘，配碗粥，舒坦。

第八道：糯米蒸南瓜盅——甜到心里的秋日小甜品

小南瓜从顶部切开，挖瓤。糯米提前泡三小时，和葡萄干、红枣碎、红糖拌一起，填进南瓜肚，八分满。盖上南瓜盖，蒸50分钟，糯米完全软糯。开盖那刻，甜香扑鼻——南瓜肉挖着吃，和糯米饭搅一起，红枣甜、葡萄干酸、南瓜香，全融嘴里。不用一滴油、一粒盐，全靠食材本味。秋天下午饿了，蒸一个当点心，比蛋糕健康，比奶茶暖胃，女孩子多吃补气血。我家闺女管它叫“南瓜小蛋糕”，其实比蛋糕省事多了。

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