2026年亚洲50最佳酒吧之我观|天禄琐记

7月28日晚，2026年度亚洲50最佳酒吧（Asia’s 50Best Bar）颁奖典礼于澳门永利皇宫酒店举行。

如今年3月香港举办亚洲50最佳餐厅典礼期间般，典礼前后的澳门餐饮界可谓热闹异常，各种酒吧联弹活动和餐厅活动大搞了几日。可惜笔者假期有限，只能与诸多活动失之交臂，幸好赶得上典礼，在现场感受到了酒吧界聚会的热烈氛围，也见证了广州庙前冰室（Hope & Sesame）成为首家获得“亚洲第一酒吧”称号的中国内地酒吧这一历史时刻。

广州庙前冰室

庙前冰室团队，请忽略前面这个人头

今年的榜单，大中华区的酒吧发力甚猛，进入前50名的酒吧从去年的13家（内地3家，香港6家，台湾4家）升至今年的18家（内地7家，香港7家，澳门1家，台湾3家），而且排名整体有所上升，例如位于深圳文华东方酒店的Mo Bar从21名上升至第5名。与今年的亚洲50最佳餐厅榜单一样，大中华区，尤其是内地的餐饮从业者正在发力冲刺50最佳榜单，且取得了一定成效。而且榜单的视线从传统的餐饮重镇如香港、东京、新加坡等，开始深入至深圳、成都、长沙和杭州等新兴餐饮热点城市，这也是今年榜单的一个显著趋势。

从积极角度看，这是中国餐饮软实力增强的体现，让更多国际目光注意到中国餐饮业无疑是件好事。50最佳酒吧的投票规则要求入选的酒吧必须至少获得来自2个国家的投票人的支持，意即仅靠本国投票人是无法进入榜单的。这两年酒吧也频繁开始跨国联弹等活动，无疑也是希望扩大自己在异国的知名度，从而吸引潜在的投票人前去拜访。这种跨国的行业交流即便单次活动的宣传性大于实质性，总体来看仍有助于酒吧之间的信息交流和促进专业能力提升。

我不是一位调酒的狂热爱好者，但偶尔去不同酒吧品尝亦是我饮食生活中的重要一环。平日里我喝葡萄酒更多，调酒与我而言与葡萄酒是完全不同的酒精饮品。后者仰仗酿酒师之功，以葡萄生长及酿造的风土为重，本质上而言，葡萄酒可说是一阶产品，控制其风味的难度更大；而调酒是二阶产品，与烹饪有相通之处，其本质上是不同味道的混合，加上如今各种澄清、发酵技术的普及与深度使用，令调酒的科学性进一步提高，风味的光谱进一步拓展。因此很多时候我们可以用类似烹饪的评价标准去讨论调酒，味道的层次感、不同味道的平衡性、调味的精准度、调酒理念的表达，乃至喝完之后身体的舒适度都是评价调酒的标准。

吃吃君在现场发回报道

既然关乎口味，自然在客观味道的基础上有大量主观偏好作祟，于是关于酒吧的高低之分常引起好友之间的争执，这再正常不过。对亚洲50最佳酒吧榜单结果的怀疑和批评，在我看来也是十分正常的，无论哪一家酒吧获得第一都定有人赞同有人反对。

今年庙前冰室获得第一后，在恭喜祝贺声之外也有大量反对和不解之论，这也是每一年榜单可以引起话题度的原因之一——有争论才有讨论度。“最佳”二字本无绝对标准，世界50最佳向来不设定最佳的标准，全由投票人去进行自由心证。千人千面，最后投出来的结果自然无法让所有人满意。但我一直认为，50最佳榜单是地区或国家的餐饮业向世界进行展示的有效窗口，如果只讨论榜单上某一家酒吧的具体排名，自然会迷失这榜单的最大作用。

Mius主理人Shelley Tai，图片来自50B官网

某种程度上，50最佳榜单是一股促进行业交流和发展的力量，也是各国餐厅酒吧的一个国际展示舞台。作为一个中国人，我认为这榜单能让世界上更多人注意到中国的餐饮业发展，这是非常重要的一点。例如庙前冰室将岭南风味入馔鸡尾酒，在这一方面他们算是先锋，许多外国客人也许都是通过他们的调酒才了解到岭南丰富的自然或烹饪的风味，从而生出探索心来，这何尝不算一种功德？而且终于有一家中国内地的酒吧登顶亚洲50最佳酒吧第一之位，撇开对具体酒吧的好恶，这本身就是一件大喜事。在庙前冰室夺得第一后，相信将有更多国际游客注意到中国蓬勃发展的调酒行业。

我相信此后还将有中国酒吧登顶这一榜单，今年的结果也许能激发更多调酒行业里的年轻调酒师去奋发努力，将自己的技艺精进、眼界拓宽，从而通过鸡尾酒这一全然西方的饮品将东方的味觉和美学传递给全世界。

我一直认为，50最佳榜单是一个提供全世界从业者交流学习的平台，而不是绝对意义上的优劣排名。一时的排名在我看来并无长远意义，排名的动态变化反而是餐饮业趋势的一种折射，更为值得关注和思考。

若说榜单的公允性，我想世界上没有一张榜单可让所有人买账，这本身就是一个巨大的悖论。目前而言，50最佳榜单的制度仍具合理性，广泛分布于不同国家和地区、且每年要轮替25%的300位匿名投票人也令猜测投票人身份和操纵投票结果变得极为困难。但我们要明白，50最佳榜单本身更倚重圈内人的观点，普通消费者的评价标准与从业者及相关媒体的观点一定会存在分歧。

酒吧从业者也好，餐饮人和主厨也罢，与其想着如何讨巧走捷径，不如将精力放在核心产品的研发与打磨上。不过，行业内的适当交流与沟通在今时今日也变得十分重要，内化和外来如何取得平衡反而是从业者要把握的最核心难题。

有一说一，永利皇宫做接待还是很用心的

2026年8月2-3日 于香港

2026年8月16日发表于《大公报》副刊

附录：全文英文翻译

Reflections on the 2026 Asia's 50 Best Bars

The awards ceremony for the 2026Asia's 50 Best Barstook place on the evening of 28 July atWynn Palace in Macau. Much like the buzz that accompanied the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants ceremony in Hong Kong this past March, the days surrounding the event saw Macau's dining and drinking scene ablaze with activity—a whirlwind of guest shifts and collaborative dinners. Regrettably, my annual leave was too scant to partake in most of these festivities, though I was fortunate enough to attend the ceremony itself. There, I witnessed not only the palpable camaraderie of the bar community but also a historic moment: Guangzhou's Hope & Sesame becoming the first bar from Chinese Mainland to be crowned The Best Bar in Asia.

This year's list reflects a remarkable surge in performance from bars across Greater China. Their representation in the top 50 has grown from 13 last year—comprising 3 from Chinese Mainland , 6 from Hong Kong, and 4 from Taiwan—to 18 this year, with 7 from Chinese Mainland , 7 from Hong Kong, 1 from Macau, and 3 from Taiwan. Rankings, too, have seen a notable ascent across the board; MO Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen, for instance, climbed from No.21 to No.5. This momentum mirrors the trend observed in this year's Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, suggesting that industry professionals in Greater China—and the Mainland in particular—are making concerted and effective strides towards the upper echelons of the 50 Best lists. Furthermore, the rankings now cast their gaze beyond traditional culinary capitals such as Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Singapore, reaching into emerging hotspots like Shenzhen, Chengdu, Changsha, and Hangzhou, which stands as one of this year's most salient trends.

From a constructive perspective, this is a testament to the growing soft power of China's F&B sector, and it is unequivocally a positive development that international attention is being drawn to the industry here. The voting rules of the 50 Best Bars require that a bar on the list must have received votes from at least two countries, meaning that domestic support alone is insufficient to secure a place. The recent proliferation of transnational guest shifts and collaborations is clearly an attempt by bars to raise their profile abroad and attract potential voters. While the promotional value of these individual events may outweigh their substantive exchange, on the whole, they remain beneficial for the cross-pollination of ideas and the raising of professional standards across the industry.

I would not describe myself as an ardent cocktail enthusiast, yet the occasional visit to a fine bar is an integral part of my culinary life. I tend to drink more wine, and for me, cocktails and wine are fundamentally different beverages. Wine is the product of the winemaker's craft, deeply rooted in the terroir of the grape and its vintage; in essence, it is a primary product, and the mastery of its flavour profile is a more difficult endeavour. Cocktails, by contrast, are a secondary product, sharing a kinship with the culinary arts. At their core, they are a blending of different tastes, and with the widespread adoption and sophisticated use of techniques like clarification and fermentation, the science of mixing has been elevated, pushing the spectrum of flavours ever wider. It is therefore often apt to assess a cocktail using criteria borrowed from cuisine: the layering of flavours, the balance between them, the precision of the seasoning, the articulation of a creative concept, and even the sense of well-being one feels after consumption.

Since taste is at issue, a great deal of subjective preference inevitably intrudes upon objective flavour. It is entirely natural, therefore, that friends frequently fall into spirited debate over the relative merits of one bar over another. Likewise, I see it as perfectly normal that the Asia's 50 Best Bars results should be met with scepticism and criticism; whichever bar claims the top spot, there will always be those who applaud and those who dissent.

This year, Hope & Sesame's victory has, amidst a chorus of congratulations, also drawn considerable opposition and bewilderment—which is precisely what lends the annual list its talking points, for controversy breeds conversation. The word "Best" implies no absolute standard; The World's 50 Best has never defined one, leaving the judgement entirely to the voters' subjective discernment. A thousand palates yield a thousand preferences, and the final tally will never satisfy everyone. Yet I have long maintained that the 50 Best list serves as an effective window for a region or nation's F&B industry to showcase itself to the world. To become fixated on the specific ranking of a single establishment is to miss the list's greatest utility.

In a sense, the 50 Best list is a force for industry exchange and development, and an international stage for the world's bars and restaurants. As a Chinese observer, I believe it is vitally important that the list draws greater global attention to the evolution of China's F&B industry. Take Hope & Sesame, for example—they are pioneers in infusing Cantonese flavours into their cocktails. Many international patrons may well have first encountered the rich natural and culinary heritage of Lingnan through their drinks, sparking a desire to explore further. Is that not a form of merit in itself? And the fact that a bar from Chinese Mainland has finally ascended to the top of the Asia's 50 Best Bars—setting aside personal preferences regarding the establishment—is, in itself, a cause for genuine celebration. With this landmark win, we can expect more international travellers to turn their attention to China's vibrant and burgeoning cocktail scene.

I am confident that other Chinese bars will follow suit and claim this title. This year's result, I hope, will inspire a new generation of young bartenders in the country to refine their craft, broaden their horizons, and, through the decidedly Western medium of the cocktail, convey Eastern aesthetics and sensibilities to the world.

I have always believed that the 50 Best list is a platform for professionals worldwide to exchange ideas and learn from one another, rather than an absolute and definitive hierarchy. A single year's ranking, in my view, holds little enduring significance. The dynamic flux of these rankings is, however, a far more compelling subject—a prism through which to discern the broader trends shaping the industry.

As for the fairness of the list—no ranking in the world could ever hope to please everyone; this is an inherent and significant paradox. For what it is worth, the current system underpinning the 50 Best lists retains a reasonable degree of integrity. The 300 anonymous voters, widely distributed across different countries and regions, with 25% rotated annually, make it exceedingly difficult to identify them or to manipulate the outcome. Nevertheless, it is important to recognise that the 50 Best list leans heavily on the perspectives of industry insiders; the criteria by which these professionals and media figure judge a bar are bound to diverge from those of the general public.

Whether they are bartenders, restaurateurs, or chefs, the wisest course is to focus their energies on the development and refinement of their core product, rather than on seeking shortcuts or courting favour. At the same time, however, appropriate communication and exchange within the industry have become indispensable. Striking the right balance between the inward-looking cultivation of craft and the outward-facing engagement with the wider world is, perhaps, the most central challenge they face.

Hong Kong, 2–3 August 2026

《大公报》书影

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第一卷《中餐百味》及第二卷《环宇美食》

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徐成，浙江人，在天南地北生活过，目前定居香港。金融从业者；饮食作家，中国作家协会会员，著有《香港谈食录》两卷、《日本寻味记》卷一及《小城回味志》；《香港地方志·饮食卷》撰稿人；中央电视台及香港电台联合制作纪录片《香港之味》总顾问；文学翻译，已出版译作三种。人生最大乐趣在于走走吃吃，在香港街头巷尾各类食肆留下觅食身影，又常在世界各地寻找美食，希望通过文字可以将这种对美的追求与读者分享和探讨。在《大公报》撰写饮食专栏“饮馔短歌”、“天禄琐记”；二零一四年开设公众号“走走吃吃”。