立秋必吃的家常好菜！清暑热防秋燥还通便，老少都受益吗？

刚过完三伏，立秋一到，村里人嘴上都说凉快了，可太阳一出来，秋老虎照样不含糊。我家这两天早晚倒是能开窗透气，可中午那股热劲儿还在，空气里还带着干巴巴的劲儿，嗓子容易发紧，饭也不爱往下咽。这个节骨眼上，很多人就适合吃点鲜笋，脆生生的，水分足，炒一盘端上桌，连我家两个小子都能多扒两口米饭。

立秋吃笋，不是图个新鲜，是图它应季。竹笋这东西，老百姓吃了多少年了，南方北方都有人爱，北方人以前更多是吃干笋、腌笋，近些年冷链发达了，鲜笋也越来越常见。中国居民膳食里一直提倡多吃蔬菜，特别是深色、菌菇、笋类这类高纤维食材，理由很实在，热量不高，肚子却容易有满足感，家里老人也喜欢这种不腻的口儿。

我家老爷子七十多了，到了秋天总念叨一个事，嘴里发干，肚子也不顺当。老太太更讲究，炒菜不爱太油，嫌腻得慌。鲜笋片就特别对路，切薄了下锅一炒，脆、鲜、轻，拌饭拌面都行。山东人吃饭讲究实在，肉要香，菜也得有菜味，不能寡淡得像白开水。笋片这口感就挺妙，咬下去脆，嚼着还有点鲜甜，像在嘴里打了个清亮的响雷。

这道清炒鲜笋片，做法一点不绕。鲜笋去皮，切片以后先泡十来分钟，把涩味先请出去。大蒜拍碎，干辣椒切段，小葱切长段，都是家常小料，厨房里顺手就能备齐。锅里油热了，蒜和辣椒先下去，小火煸出香味，再把笋片倒进去，开大火猛炒。火候这个事儿很关键，笋怕久炒，时间一长就发软，脆劲儿没了，跟一根有脾气的筷子似的，蔫了。

调味也不用太多花活，盐、生抽、少许蚝油、一点点白糖，目的不是把味道盖住，而是把笋本身那股鲜味顶出来。山东老话讲，菜要吃本味。笋这东西本来就清爽，太重口反而糟践了。炒两三分钟，笋片开始发亮，边缘微微透着油光，最后把葱段扔进去翻几下，锅气一带，香味就起来了。出锅那一下，真有点像一盘子春风，清清亮亮，利利索索。

立秋后为什么很多人会觉得口干、便秘、没胃口，这事也不玄乎。三伏天人出汗多，体内水分消耗大，到了秋天，湿热虽然开始退，空气却更干。中医里常说秋燥，讲的就是这个变化。国家卫健委和不少营养科普里也提到，秋季饮食要注意补水、增加膳食纤维，少吃过于油腻和燥热的东西。鲜笋的水分高，纤维也多，吃起来清爽，确实更适合这个时节。

不少人一到秋天就爱上火，嗓子疼、嘴唇干、鼻子干，这些症状很多时候跟环境和饮食都有关系。冰镇饮料喝多了不行，烧烤火锅连着上也不行，肠胃跟着闹脾气。鲜笋片这类菜就不一样，像给肚里送了点清气。它不是药，但它能让一顿饭变得舒服。吃完不撑得慌，胃里也没那么燥，老人孩子都愿意吃。

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http://www.new.fkytj.com/News/detail/83156916.shtml我身边不少人对笋有误解，觉得它寒，怕吃多了伤胃。这个说法也不能说全错，脾胃特别虚寒、平时就容易腹泻的人，确实不适合一口气吃太多。可大多数家庭正常吃法，先泡一泡，必要时焯一分钟，再配点蒜、葱、辣椒，寒性就不会那么冲。做菜这事，讲究的就是分寸，跟带孩子一样，不能一脚油门踩到底，得知道松紧。

鲜笋还有个好处，特别适合家里饭量大的人。我们山东这边，别看平时说话慢，吃饭真不含糊。一个好菜端上来，米饭就跟着少了一半。笋片脆、咸鲜、带点微辣，汤汁又不多，特别适合配米饭。老父亲喜欢拿它就着馒头，两个小子喜欢往碗里一扣，连菜带汁拌着吃，吃得那叫一个顺。你说这菜贵不贵，不贵，可饭桌上它不掉价，反而最先光盘。

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http://www.new.fkytj.com/News/detail/45068674.shtml竹笋在老百姓餐桌上还有个特点，就是做法灵活。春天有春笋，秋天市场上也能见到不少鲜笋，南方一些地方更是家家离不了。成都人爱拿它做干锅、腊肉炒笋，江浙一带爱做油焖笋、笋烧肉，福建、江西不少地方也把笋当家常菜。吃法不同，底子都一样，图的就是那口鲜。民间早就把笋归到清鲜一类食材里，讲究的不是大补，而是顺时。

从营养角度看，竹笋热量不高，脂肪少，适合想吃得轻一点的人。它含有一定的膳食纤维，能增加饱腹感，对平时蔬菜吃得少、坐得久的人来说，算是个不错的补位选手。很多上班族白天忙，晚上回家想吃点清口菜，笋片就挺合适。炒一盘，不费时间，厨房里转两圈就能端上桌，比点外卖强多了。

但笋再好，也不是随便猛吃。鲜笋里有一定的草酸和粗纤维，处理不好，吃着容易发涩，肚子敏感的人也可能觉得顶胃。所以泡水、焯水这一步不能省。尤其是老笋、春笋一类，处理得细一点更稳妥。家里做饭就是这样，别嫌麻烦，几分钟的小步骤，换来的是整盘菜的口感。吃饭这事，图的是舒服，不是逞能。

我做这道菜的时候，最爱看锅里那股水汽起来。蒜香一炸，辣椒一点，笋片在锅里翻来翻去，颜色从生白变成透亮，像是从粗糙变得精神了。小葱最后一撒，香气一下就收住了。这样的菜端上桌，不需要摆太多花样，也不需要复杂拍照，盘子边缘干干净净，往桌上一放，老人会先动筷，孩子也会跟着抢，场面比啥都热乎。

立秋这段时间，饮食上很多人都容易走两个极端，一个是觉得天凉了，开始猛吃肉，红烧排骨、酱肘子、炖大骨头轮着来；另一个是还惦记着夏天那口冰的，雪糕、冰饮不离手。其实都不太合适。前者容易腻，后者容易伤胃。像鲜笋片这种清爽菜，正好站在中间，不抢戏，但很顶用。桌上有它，整顿饭的脾气都能平和不少。

家里有老人和孩子的，更能体会这种菜的好处。老人怕油、怕硬，孩子怕苦、怕怪味，鲜笋片正好两头都能照顾到。只要火候掌握好了，笋片是脆的，不是硬的，鲜里带点辣，辣里带点香。我们家孩子吃菜有时候跟挑将军似的，这不吃那不碰，可这盘笋片一上，他们往往先夹。饭桌上能让孩子主动吃菜，这事对当爹的来说，比什么都值。

立秋以后，菜市场里鲜笋、莲藕、冬瓜、南瓜这些时令菜慢慢多起来，都是偏清润的路子。老祖宗讲究不时不食，放到今天看，还是有道理。顺着节气吃饭，不折腾肠胃，也少给身体添乱。鲜笋这道菜，说白了就是把秋天这点干燥劲儿往下压一压，把饭桌上的火气往下收一收，盘子不大，作用不小。

晚饭时，我把炒好的笋片端上桌，老爷子先夹了一筷子，说这口还真脆。老太太尝了尝，说不油。两个小子一边扒饭一边抢笋，嘴上还不闲着。厨房里那点烟火气，到了饭桌上就成了踏实日子。立秋后的这一盘清炒鲜笋片，没啥玄乎的，就是顺时、顺口、顺家人的脾胃。