三伏天全家都不想吃饭，我连做了7天这5道菜，筷子就没停过

三伏天一到，家里饭桌最常听见的不是吃饭声，是一句话，没胃口。前阵子去菜市场，我看见仔姜水灵灵地摆着，摊主大姐顺手就来了一句，这东西配牛肉炒最嫩。回家照着一做，果然不赖。牛肉逆着纹路切，抓点淀粉、生抽，再淋点油锁水，大火快炒，肉片一变色就出锅。仔姜切丝，配青椒一炒，牛肉回锅一翻，嫩、香、脆全齐了，夏天吃着真顺口。

这类菜之所以管用，不是花哨，靠的是四个字，开胃下饭。夏天热，人体出汗多，胃口往往会差一点，吃太油腻容易闷，吃太寡淡又没兴趣。家常菜要想让一家老小都动筷子，关键不是摆谱，而是食材接地气，做法别折腾，味道得有层次。酸一点、鲜一点、脆一点、香一点，饭量立马就上来了。

我在家做饭这些年，最明白一件事，夏天厨房里最怕复杂。你要是焯水一遍、过油一遍、再炖一遍，锅台前站半天，人先热蔫了，菜也不一定招人待见。真正适合三伏天的菜，得像山东人待客，实在，直接，端上来就能吃，还得让人想再添半碗米饭。

第一道最适合热天的，就是仔姜炒牛肉。牛肉嫩不嫩，先看切法。顺着纹路切，嚼着费劲；逆着纹路切，纤维断开，入口就松。再加淀粉、生抽、少许油抓匀，肉里水分能稳住。家里老人牙口一般，孩子吃饭又急，这一步省不得。大火快炒，牛肉变色就关火，千万别跟它较劲，牛肉这东西火大了就老，老了就是柴，谁吃谁皱眉。

仔姜也有讲究。老姜辣，夏天吃容易冲鼻子，仔姜嫩，辣味轻，带点清香，和牛肉放一块儿正合适。青椒别炒太久，保留一点脆劲，入口还有微微清甜。山东这边夏天菜市场上的仔姜，往往一把一把带着泥，洗净切丝，炒出来特别下饭。北方人吃饭讲究一口热乎，一口有劲，这盘菜正对路。

第二道是焖鸡腿。它的厉害之处，不在卖相，在省事。鸡腿两面划两刀，方便入味，底下铺姜片蒜瓣，生抽、老抽、蚝油、料酒、白糖，再加温水没过大半，大火烧开后转最小火，盖盖焖二十分钟。这个二十分钟别乱掀盖，锅里那点热气一跑，肉质就容易差一截。以前我第一次做，中途忍不住揭开看了一眼，结果回头又多焖了十来分钟。后来学乖了，时间一到，筷子轻轻一戳，鸡腿自己就脱骨。

这道菜最绝的是汁。鸡肉里的油脂和蒜香混在一起，最后收汁的时候挂在肉上，往米饭上一浇，孩子们吃得连盘底都能刮干净。三伏天家里有老人孩子，做这种菜最稳当，不费太多力气，还能哄得全家安安心心吃饱。别看是家常做法，里面其实很讲火候，火候一过，味道就跑偏。

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http://www.blog.widersun.com/Article/details/113946.Shtml第三道是青椒酿肉。很多孩子一看青椒就扭头，可真把肉馅塞进去，态度就变了。我家那两个小子平时也挑，见到青椒总要撇嘴，这回一盘上桌，居然一人吃了三个。肉馅得选三分肥七分瘦，太瘦发干，太肥发腻。加葱姜水，顺着一个方向搅打，让肉馅起胶，这样煎出来才紧实。

青椒从中间剖开，去籽，把肉馅压进去，别怕塞满，煎的时候它会收紧。下锅先煎肉馅那面，小火慢煎到金黄定型，再翻面煎出虎皮纹，撒一点水盖盖焖几分钟。青椒熟了以后带着清甜，肉馅里面裹着汁，咬开一口，鲜味直接在嘴里炸开。这个菜没有大鱼大肉那种厚重，特别适合夏天，老人吃着不腻，孩子吃着不躲，饭桌上常常第一个被清盘。

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http://www.blog.widersun.com/Article/details/044151.Shtml
http://www.blog.widersun.com/Article/details/315739.Shtml第四道是红烧肉加鹌鹑蛋。红烧肉这道菜，全国各地都熟，但做对了和做砸了，差别真不小。炒糖色是第一关，冰糖小火慢慢熬，颜色到枣红色，锅里冒小泡，就赶紧下肉翻匀。很多人图省事，直接拿凉水去炖，肉一下子就发紧，口感立刻差一截。热水才是正道，滚烫的开水一冲，肉能稳住。

这道菜的妙处还在鹌鹑蛋。鹌鹑蛋先煮熟剥壳，等红烧肉炖到半程，再丢进去一起焖。鹌鹑蛋小小一个，最会吸味，肉汁一进去，咬着满嘴都是香。家里老人喜欢这个，孩子也抢得快，常常一盘菜还没怎么动，蛋先没了。东北老话说得实在，肉烂不烂，看火候；香不香，看收汁。这道菜把这两样都占了。

第五道是莴笋炒牛肉。夏天出汗多，人容易没精神，莴笋口感清，含钾也高，吃着利落。牛肉切片后可以稍微加点小苏打腌一下，时间别太久，十五分钟左右就够，能让肉更嫩。莴笋去皮斜切成片，厚薄差不多，炒的时候受热均匀。牛肉先滑炒盛出，底油下蒜片和小米辣，香味一出来再下莴笋，大火快炒一分半钟，最后把牛肉倒回锅里，勾个薄芡。

这菜厉害就厉害在快。十分钟左右能上桌，颜色也亮堂，绿的是莴笋，褐的是牛肉，热气一冒，家里人一看就知道今天不是随便对付。山东人讲究吃得明白，菜要有菜样，肉要有肉味，别糊弄。莴笋这东西夏天特别合适，脆，不占肚子，和牛肉搭在一起，正好把饭口带起来。

其实这五道菜，原料都不贵，菜市场一转就能买齐。牛肉、鸡腿、青椒、红烧肉、莴笋，都是家常铺子里常见的东西。真正拉开差距的，不是食材多稀罕，而是做法有没有踩准点。牛肉要逆纹切，鸡腿别老揭盖，青椒酿肉要把馅打上劲，红烧肉要用热水，莴笋炒牛肉要快。看着都是小事，落到锅里就是大事。

我家这段时间轮着做了一圈，饭桌上的气氛都变了。以前天一热，孩子们一会儿说这个不想吃，一会儿说那个没味道，老母亲也常念叨天闷吃不下。现在菜一端上来，筷子先动起来，连我家那位平时最讲究清淡的，也会多夹两块肉。厨房里烟火气一起来，人就有劲儿，饭也吃得踏实。

三伏天做饭，别跟天气较劲，顺着胃口来。菜可以普通，火候不能普通；味道可以家常，步骤不能马虎。菜市场里那些最不起眼的食材，仔细拾掇拾掇，照样能做出让一家人扒拉米饭的菜。热天吃饭这件事，说到底就是图个舒服，图个实在，图个全家围桌子时那点热乎劲儿。

这几道菜要是轮着上，家里那点没胃口的毛病，基本就能压住。你家三伏天最常做的开胃菜是啥，俺也去想学两手，回头俺也去试试，省得总被我家那俩小子嫌弃菜不够香。