处暑一过,秋风虽起,但夏末的湿热还赖在体内不肯走,这时候最怕盲目贴秋膘——吃鱼吧,性偏寒凉,脾胃弱的人容易生痰;吃猪肉又嫌油腻,脂肪堆在身上甩不掉。可偏偏有一种食材,天生就是为这个尴尬时节准备的:它不腥不腻,肉质紧实弹牙,蛋白质含量比鸡胸还亮眼,脂肪却低得让健身党都偷笑;更妙的是,它自带一股清润之气,随手扔进砂锅,加两片姜、几粒花椒,淋上酱油米酒,小火一焖,汤汁收浓时满屋飘香,连锅底的酱汁都想用米饭刮干净。老人常说“处暑祛湿,一年不疲”,这食材既能把困住脾胃的湿浊赶跑,又能用温和的性子养好虚弱的胃气,吃完浑身暖洋洋,连秋燥都不觉干渴。究竟是什么宝贝?别急,今天我就把压箱底的几道拿手焖烧方子全抖出来,每一道都简单到“有手就行”,但香到邻居敲门问配方——您且看好了。
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第一道菜:陈皮酱香焖鸭胸
(注:鸭胸肉高蛋白低脂肪,处暑食鸭温补不燥,但题目“吃鱼不如吃它”中“它”可指鸭肉,故选用。)
所需食材
去皮鸭胸肉两块(约500克),新会陈皮一小瓣(泡软刮去白瓤),生姜一大块切片,红葱头四颗对半切开,生抽三勺,老抽一勺,蚝油一勺,柱侯酱两勺,冰糖十克,花雕酒半碗,热水足量,白胡椒粉少许,香葱两根打结。
步骤:
1. 鸭胸肉洗净,用厨房纸彻底吸干表面水分,在带皮那面划上浅十字花刀(深度约肉厚三分之一),方便入味且煎时皮不收缩。
2. 平底不粘锅烧至微微冒烟,不放油,鸭皮朝下放入,中火慢煎约5分钟,逼出鸭油,直到鸭皮金黄酥脆,翻面再煎2分钟,取出备用。
3. 煎出的鸭油倒出大半留作他用,锅中留底油,下姜片、红葱头爆香,至边缘焦黄,加入柱侯酱和蚝油,小火炒出红油和酱香气。
4. 放入泡软切丝的陈皮、冰糖、花雕酒、生抽、老抽,再倒入热水(没过鸭胸一半高度),大火烧开后撇去浮沫。
5. 将鸭胸肉皮朝上放入锅中,加入香葱结,加盖转最小火,焖煮25分钟,中途开盖翻面一次,让两面均匀上色。
6. 开盖转中大火收汁,用勺子不断将浓稠酱汁浇淋在鸭皮上,直至汤汁剩余约小半碗,关火前撒入白胡椒粉。
7. 鸭肉取出稍凉后切厚片,摆入深盘,淋上锅中剩余酱汁,撒少许葱花或熟芝麻点缀,连锅端上桌。
1. 陈皮的白瓤一定要刮净,否则会发苦;若没有新会陈皮,可用九制陈皮替代,但用量减半并减少冰糖。
2. 收汁时切忌大火猛煮,否则酱汁易焦糊且鸭肉变老,全程保持中大火并不断翻动,看到汤汁冒大泡即可。
3. 鸭胸煎出的鸭油别浪费,滤渣后拌面或炒青菜,香得离谱;另外,此菜隔夜回锅更入味,但复热时加一勺水防干。
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第二道菜:紫苏蒜子焖牛腱
(牛腱肉脂肪含量极低,富含胶原蛋白,温中养胃,处暑后吃正当时。)
所需食材
牛腱子肉600克,新鲜紫苏叶一把(约30克),独头蒜十颗(或蒜瓣两整头),干辣椒三个(不吃辣可不放),八角一枚,桂皮一小段,生抽四勺,老抽半勺,黄豆酱一勺,啤酒一罐(330毫升),冰糖八克,姜片五片,香醋半勺,食用油适量。
步骤:
1. 牛腱切成3厘米见方的大块,冷水下锅,加姜片和少许料酒,煮沸后撇净浮沫,焯烫3分钟,捞出用温水冲洗干净,沥干水分。
2. 独头蒜不去皮,整颗洗净后用刀背轻轻拍裂(保留蒜皮焖煮时不易烂糊),紫苏叶洗净切粗丝,干辣椒剪段。
3. 炒锅烧热倒油,放入姜片、八角、桂皮、干辣椒段小火煸香,再下入蒜粒,煎至表面微黄起皱,散发出浓郁蒜香。
4. 倒入牛腱块,转中火翻炒至表面收紧微焦,沿锅边淋入香醋,激出香气后加入黄豆酱、生抽、老抽,翻炒均匀上色。
5. 倒入整罐啤酒,再补足热水至没过牛肉,放入冰糖和一半紫苏丝,大火烧开转小火,加盖慢炖1小时20分钟(高压锅可缩短至25分钟)。
6. 开盖检视,若筷子能轻松扎透肉块,则转中大火收汁,此时加入剩余紫苏丝,不断翻拌,让紫苏的清香融入酱汁。
7. 待汤汁浓稠明亮,挂在牛肉上呈琥珀色时关火,静置5分钟让肉回吸汁水,盛入砂锅,撒上新鲜紫苏嫩叶点缀。
1. 牛腱焯水后一定要用温水洗,冷水会使肉质收缩变硬;炖煮时中途尽量不加水,若必须加,务必加开水。
2. 紫苏分两次放,第一次炖煮取醇厚底味,第二次收汁取清新香气,若早放全部则香味挥发殆尽。
3. 啤酒可替代部分水,不仅去腥增香,还能让肉质更酥烂;但炖煮时间必须足够,否则酒精未挥发会发苦,建议至少炖1小时。
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第三道菜:腐乳花生焖猪蹄
(猪蹄胶原蛋白丰富,脂肪低于五花肉,且花生健脾养胃,祛湿又润肤。)
所需食材
猪前蹄两只(斩成小块约800克),红皮花生米一小碗(提前泡发2小时),玫瑰腐乳三块加腐乳汁两勺,生姜一大块拍扁,八角两个,香叶三片,冰糖二十克,生抽两勺,老抽一勺,料酒半碗,白醋一勺,葱花适量,热水足量。
步骤:
1. 猪蹄冷水浸泡1小时换水三次,泡出血水后冷水下锅,加姜片、料酒焯煮,水开煮5分钟,捞出用温水洗净表面浮沫,用镊子夹净残留猪毛。
2. 腐乳用勺子碾碎,与腐乳汁、生抽、老抽、料酒调成酱汁备用;花生米控干水分。
3. 炒锅少油,下入姜块、八角、香叶小火煸香,放入猪蹄块,中火翻炒至皮面微焦,淋入白醋快速翻炒,去腥并软化骨边肉。
4. 倒入调好的腐乳酱汁,翻炒均匀让每块猪蹄裹上红亮的腐乳色,加入冰糖和泡好的花生米,继续翻炒两分钟。
5. 注入足量热水(完全淹没猪蹄并高出两厘米),大火烧开后转小火,加盖慢炖1小时40分钟,期间翻动两次防止粘底。
6. 开盖查看,若汤汁剩余约三分之一,转中火收汁,同时用勺子不停搅动,使酱汁逐渐浓稠并均匀包裹住猪蹄和花生。
7. 待汤汁收至挂勺状态,猪蹄软糯脱骨但皮不烂,即可关火,撒上葱花和少许白芝麻,趁热端上桌,连花生都吸饱了肉汁。
1. 腐乳本身咸度高,生抽和老抽需酌情减量,宁可淡了最后加盐,也别一次下重手,否则成品过咸无法补救。
2. 花生一定要提前泡透,否则炖煮后中心仍硬,影响口感;若用高压锅,可与猪蹄同压30分钟,但收汁环节不能省。
3. 收汁时火候要温柔,且不停翻动,因为腐乳和胶质极易糊底;若喜欢更浓郁,可加一小勺蜂蜜代替部分冰糖,光泽更诱人。
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