家常土豆炖鸡块的正确做法是什么，才能软烂入味不发柴，新手一次就能成功

家里炖一锅土豆鸡块，锅盖一掀，香气顺着厨房往外跑，我家俩儿子最先坐不住。一个扒着灶台问啥时候能吃，一个拿筷子等着拌饭，我媳妇在旁边笑，说这菜真像我们山东人的脾气，实在、顶饱、还不挑人。

这道菜看着普通，里头门道不少。鸡块要嫩，土豆要糯，葱姜蒜得够用，火候得稳，盐还不能下太早。说白了，土豆炖鸡块好不好吃，不在花哨，靠的是选材、处理、调味、火候这几步，哪一步歪了，味道就容易跑偏。

现在很多人做饭图省事，喜欢网上搜一堆复杂配料，结果炒出来一锅乱味。土豆炖鸡块不是这么回事，它就是家常菜里的硬菜，讲究的是用最常见的东西，做出最稳当的味道。普通鸡块，普通土豆，菜市场就能买齐，做法也不折腾，适合上班回家赶饭点，也适合周末一家人坐一桌慢慢吃。

鸡肉这块，选嫩一点的更合适。像三黄鸡、嫩鸡块，肉质细，炖的时间不用拖太久。老鸡不是不能做，是家常灶台没那么多耐心。老鸡炖久了才可能软，短时间里肉容易柴，吃着费牙口。我家老人牙口一般，就特别在意这点，肉得软，咬着不费劲，这才像一顿踏实饭。

土豆也不是随便抓一个就行。黄心土豆更适合炖，淀粉含量适中，口感偏粉糯，吸汤以后很有味。白心土豆更脆，炒菜还能用，用来炖鸡块就差点意思，容易保持硬感，不够绵。土豆切成滚刀块，大小和鸡块差不多，熟得才匀，锅里看着也顺眼。

处理鸡块这一步，很多人嫌麻烦，其实就三件事：泡、焯、沥。先用清水泡个十分钟左右，把血水泡出来，中间抓洗一两遍，腥味会轻不少。这个动作不玄乎，实打实管用。接着冷水下锅，放姜片和料酒，烧开以后把浮沫撇干净，别偷懒。那些浮沫要是不撇，汤就容易浑，味道也不清爽。

焯完以后别拿凉水猛冲，温水冲一下更稳妥。冲掉残余浮沫，再把鸡块彻底沥干。这个细节很容易被忽略，可一旦水分没控好，后面下锅翻炒，油星子乱蹦，灶台跟打仗一样。我手上挨过几回油点子，后来就老实了，宁可多等两分钟，也不冒这个险。

土豆处理也差不多。削皮之后切块，立马泡进清水里，先把表面淀粉洗一洗。这样土豆不容易发黑，炖出来的汤也不至于糊成一锅。泡土豆别泡太久，几分钟就够了，泡久了那点清甜味儿会跑掉，吃着少了灵气。家常菜讲究的就是这个劲儿，不抢、不腻、不拖泥带水。

锅里先下油，别等油冒烟再放料，温热的时候把葱段、姜片、拍扁的蒜瓣、八角放进去，小火慢慢炒香。八角就放一颗，真不用多，多了味道重，压住鸡肉本来的香。吃饭这事跟做人一个理，劲别使过头，过了就拧巴。爱吃辣的再丢一两个干辣椒，不吃辣的就省了，没人非得跟自己过不去。

底料香了以后，把鸡块倒进去，中火翻炒，让每块鸡肉都裹上一层油，表面微微发黄就行。不是非得炒到焦黄，那样反而容易发干。鸡肉先炒一遍，香味会更集中，后面炖的时候肉也更稳，不会一煮就散。家里做饭和饭馆不一样，饭馆可以猛火快炒，咱家里讲究的是稳稳当当，吃着舒服。http://www.xinglongwheels.com/common/news.php/55432439379.shtml
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接着放料酒、生抽、少量老抽和一点白糖。生抽提鲜，老抽上色，料酒去腥，糖是为了提口，不是让菜发甜。老抽千万别手重，颜色深了看着发闷，味道也容易发苦。很多新手一上来就猛倒老抽，结果一锅菜黑乎乎的，跟锅底似的。家常菜讲究的是亮堂，颜色别太重，食欲才能上来。

调料翻匀以后，加开水，水量刚没过鸡块就差不多。这里特别关键，别图省事加冷水。鸡肉碰冷水，肉质容易收紧，后面炖再久也不容易回软。开水一进去，锅里那股劲儿马上就起来了，大火烧开三分钟，再转小火盖盖焖十五分钟。这个节奏很稳，适合普通燃气灶，也适合家里一边做别的事一边盯着。http://www.yr1718.net/common/static.php/52757751060745.shtml
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先焖鸡块，是为了让鸡肉先吃进底味。等鸡块炖到半熟，再把土豆放进去，这个顺序很重要。土豆要是太早下锅，等鸡肉还没软的时候，土豆先烂了，最后成一锅糊，夹都夹不起来。我以前图省事，鸡和土豆一起下，结果土豆碎得厉害，汤还浑，端上桌连我儿子都说像炖散架了。

土豆下锅后，再加适量盐，盖盖继续小火焖二十分钟。盐放早了，鸡肉容易发紧，这个很多人都踩过坑。盐晚一点放，鸡肉更松软，土豆也更容易吸味。锅里咕嘟咕嘟的时候，别老揭盖子看，开一次盖，热气跑一截，火候就乱一分。老辈人炖菜讲究守灶台，不是没道理，锅里那点热气，跟捂被窝一个意思，捂住了才入味。

土豆炖到能用筷子轻轻戳透，鸡块也软了，这时候就该大火收汁。收汁这一步别怕麻烦，汁稀了，味道就浮在表面；汁收浓了，鸡肉和土豆表面都挂着一层香气，拌米饭最得劲。山东人吃饭有时候不是讲究精细，是讲究实惠，一勺汤浇在热米饭上，滋味立马就出来了，孩子一口接一口，饭碗见底特别快。

收汁时得勤翻，别让锅底糊了。土豆在锅里本来就容易粘，火一大，稍不注意就贴底。汤汁留一点点就行，不要收得太干，太干了鸡肉发柴，土豆也少了润口的感觉。出锅的时候，锅里是亮亮的酱色，鸡块裹着汁，土豆边缘微微发糯，看着就知道这锅菜稳了。

这菜还有个好处，就是全家都能吃。孩子能吃，老人也能吃，没那么重的调味负担。鸡肉有优质蛋白，土豆有碳水，吃一顿，饱得扎实。家里老人如果牙口一般，鸡块切小一点，炖透一些，照样能嚼得动。我们家每次做这道菜，两个儿子先盯土豆，老人先夹鸡肉，我媳妇则爱拿汤拌饭，锅里那点汁，最后基本连底都不剩。

土豆炖鸡块这种家常菜，真正厉害的地方，不在排场，而在稳定。普通人家过日子，饭桌上需要的就是这种稳稳的东西。早几年我在外头吃饭，总觉得饭店做得香，可自己在家一试，才知道家常菜的好，靠的是火候、耐心，还有对家里人的口味摸得准不准。土豆绵，鸡肉嫩，汤汁浓，端上桌以后，屋里那个烟火气，一下子就足了。