油炸小黄鱼，下酒简直无敌；想做得酥香可口且不返软——大厨手把手教你三招

我家第一次做炸小黄鱼是因为我爸一句话，吃饭别老凑合。他端着碗，盯着桌上的鱼说得直白：下酒菜就得炸得脆，咬下去得响，凉了也别软塌塌的。那会儿我给他做过不少菜，鱼也炸过，可总有个毛病，刚出锅好吃，过一会儿就回软，跟饭店那种酥脆不一样。

后来我认真跟着一位三十年大厨学的三招，照着做了三次才敢说确实能做到酥香不回软。也就是这道下酒菜之王炸小黄鱼，靠的不是运气，是处理、腌制和糊的逻辑，还有炸的温度节奏。你要是家里也有爱喝两盅的长辈，或者两个十岁左右的孩子嘴馋到停不下来，这碟东西真能把餐桌气氛顶起来。

第一招，处理黄鱼别图快，内脏要跟着出来，腥味才走得干净

小黄鱼得先刮鳞，再开膛。大厨强调一个动作点得很准，在腮的下面、下巴的位置连接处剪断，然后从鱼肚子这活开。关键是顺着鱼鳃的位置往起撕，这一步能把内脏一起带出来。

这一步我以前总是做得不够彻底，结果炸出来虽然颜色漂亮，但总有一股不太干净的味道，老人鼻子灵，孩子也能吃出来。处理干净了，后面腌制再怎么好也救不了。

处理完以后再冲洗一遍，甩干水分。家里不想用太多纸巾也行，但这一步一定要让水少一些，不然腌制和挂糊都容易失手。

第二招，腌鱼别只会加盐，葱姜要拍出汁，花雕酒要抓匀

腌制这段时间千万别闲着。黄鱼处理好后，用小葱轻轻拍一下切成段。姜别切细丝，直接厚点片。用刀轻轻拍一下，让姜更快出汁。

接着加花雕酒、盐三克、白胡椒粉一克。葱姜先放进去用手把它们抓一抓，让汁水出来，再把汁水和鱼完全抓匀。

这里最容易翻车的是手上动作。你要是随便拌两下，葱姜汁没被抓出来，腌制出来的口感就会淡，味道也不够贴着鱼肉。抓一抓，攥出点水气，再继续和鱼抓匀，腌进去才对。

腌这段时间，香气会先从案板那头跑出来，我家俩孩子经常围过来闻，嘴上说不吃，手上已经在找桌上小盘子的位置。

第三招，炸糊要有脆的配方，还得用正确的流动性，不回软就靠它

炸小黄鱼外皮酥不酥，跟糊的配方有关。大厨说炸糊的灵魂在比例上，糊要做得薄薄一层，但要能牢牢挂住。

面粉放二十克，糯米粉也是二十克，生粉五十克，泡打粉两克。先把粉类搅拌均匀，再少量多次加水，调到酸奶状态。

到这里还没完，最关键的一步来了。加十毫升油，这个油要有点冰的流体感觉。大厨提到一种概念，叫非牛顿流体。非牛顿流体抓起来像固体，松手又像液体。我们不需要背名词，但要记住它要拉线状态，糊就能更薄更脆，也更容易在复炸时形成稳定外壳。

我自己试过两次，第一次油没控制到位，糊太稠，挂上去厚了，第一口脆，第二口就开始干硬发柴。第二次按拉线状态来，薄薄一层，出锅以后能一直保持那种脆响感。

开炸前还有一步，黄鱼要蘸干水分，糊才能不滑不溶

黄鱼腌好了，别急着下锅。找厨房纸把水分蘸干。为什么？因为鱼表面有水，糊会被水稀释，挂不稳，炸的时候容易出现脱落，外壳就不完整。

我家用的是普通厨房纸，蘸两遍就够，注意别把鱼皮刮坏。蘸完那一下，你摸着能感觉到表面干爽，糊才会听话地贴上去。

第一次炸得透，第二次炸得脆，温度节奏要跟上

现在可以开炸了。烧油四成热左右，把鱼裹满刚才调好的糊，薄薄一层就够。裹糊动作要重复，大厨强调每一条都是这种重复的动作。我理解就是别一条裹厚一条裹薄，不均匀会导致同一锅里有人外壳已经焦，有人还没熟。

第一次炸的目的不是只求颜色，而是把鱼完全炸熟。大厨说炸差不多五分钟。炸好后先把鱼捞出来。

这时候油温要再次升到五到六成热左右再复炸。复炸目的有两个，一是让外皮更加酥脆，二是让油炸过程中鱼身体里面吃进去的油吐出来。这个词虽然有点直，但很真实，复炸就是把口感拉回去，让外壳干爽，里头不腻。

复炸的时候别磨蹭，大厨建议二十秒钟，赶紧关火出锅，撒自制花椒盐，然后起火开搓。

花椒盐我家也会做，花椒炒香再磨，盐里拌匀。你要是没有自制也行，用超市花椒盐也凑合，但自制的香味更贴鱼肉，不会抢味。

这套流程为什么能做到不回软，逻辑其实很朴素

我把这三招拆开讲，你就明白它为什么能酥香不回软。

先处理干净，内脏走掉，腥味少了，水气也少了。再腌制抓匀，让葱姜汁贴在鱼表层。最后是糊和炸的配合，糊里有面粉和糯米粉的粘性和脆性组合，又加了生粉和泡打粉带来的蓬松结构。酸奶状态容易形成薄层，冰油让糊保持拉线，复炸时外壳能更稳。

再加上炸的温度从四成热到五到六成热，第一次把水和生味处理掉，第二次把脆壳做出来，还把里面的油吐出来。你要是反过来，复炸太早会导致里头没熟，外面已经黑了但内部还带水，凉了就软。

我家现场效果是啥样，老人和孩子都给过评价

我爸第一次吃的时候没说大道（参数丨图片）理，只说两个字：真脆。筷子一夹，声音很清楚，外皮没怎么掉渣。第二口他就问我放没放料酒，说这味道干净，不腥也不油。

我那俩儿子吃相更直接，先挑最大的那条下嘴。我们家以前炸鱼总会让孩子觉得干，但这次他们不嫌干，反而觉得外壳有口感，里面鱼肉不柴。花椒盐一撒，香味起得快，他们会一边吃一边喊我再来一盘。

我老婆通常只评价一句：凉了也不算塌。因为很多家庭炸物的通病是刚出锅脆，放十来分钟就变成软壳。按这个流程做出来，凉的时候也还能保持那种干爽脆度，至少不会像老式油炸那样很快回软。

你要是真想在家做得更稳，我建议记住这几个关键数和关键动作

别把配方当玄学，关键数就几个，记住就能复刻。

盐三克、白胡椒粉一克。花雕酒加进去抓匀。面粉二十克、糯米粉二十克、生粉五十克、泡打粉两克。调到酸奶状态。加十毫升偏冰的油，让糊拉线。黄鱼腌好后蘸干水分，糊薄薄挂一层。油温四成热炸第一次，差不多五分钟。复炸油温五到六成热，二十秒出锅。

最后撒自制花椒盐，马上端上桌。你要是想吃得更响，出锅就别放太久，桌子一摆，筷子一开，脆响才不被“等待”打断。

有人问我能不能不复炸，省事行不行

我直说，省事是省事，效果就差一截。第一次炸是为了炸熟，复炸是为了把脆壳做出来，还能把油吐出来。少了复炸，外皮很容易在冷却过程中变得软而不够干爽。家里要是就想吃个味道不追求脆响，也能做，但你要是冲着饭店那种酥香，不回软的目标，就得按复炸来。

这道炸小黄鱼怎么吃更搭，你家喝不喝酒都能端上桌

下酒菜当然要配热饮或清爽的饮品，但我家更常见的是配一碗热汤或拌点家常小菜。比如切点黄瓜丝、蒜末加点醋和盐，拌一下就能解腻。鱼外皮脆，内里嫩，配点酸和清爽刚刚好。

我爸喝两口的时候会蘸一蘸花椒盐和点醋调出来的味碟，辣不重，香先到，鱼肉味道就更稳。孩子不沾醋也行，直接吃鱼外皮就已经很够劲。

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http://www.qifenggroup.cn/anews/26369855.html
http://chengtaifengji.com/anews/15972366.html
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http://www.qdzhiguan.com/anews/25775221.html
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http://www.jnzcsy.com/anews/50999127.html
http://jngangli.com/anews/18677779.html
http://cleanworld.com.cn/anews/85324664.html
http://jnjykj.com/anews/30388971.html
http://jntgjx.com/anews/68202134.html
http://julisjj.com/anews/94421617.html
http://ondsjpt.com/anews/77091253.html
http://guanjiehuojia.com/anews/71083473.html
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http://sjwtcj.com/anews/86442297.html
http://www.jnhdsjjx.com/anews/81171138.html
http://www.chengtaifengji.com/anews/70063357.html
http://www.jngangli.com/anews/61198680.html
http://www.ok7s.com/anews/31454544.html
http://yuangujixie.cn/anews/47463377.html
http://www.hanangyaoye.com/anews/83725894.html
http://www.guanjiehuojia.com/anews/66383388.html
http://www.jnjuli.com/anews/78339028.html
http://www.jnshengjiang.com/anews/19761899.html
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http://www.sdjmyg.com/anews/58158751.html
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http://www.cleanworld.com.cn/anews/58608382.html
http://www.qdzhiguan.com/anews/39515497.html
http://can100.cn/anews/98724646.html
http://jnhdsjjx.com/anews/48119944.html
http://sdzhiguan.net/anews/92236922.html
http://www.jntgjx.com/anews/39722555.html
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http://hanangyaoye.com/anews/75279042.html
http://www.yuangujixie.cn/anews/63045435.html
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http://wz1.jnmigu.net/anews/42145465.html
http://cdnscb.net.gw.wwaw.jnmigu.net/anews/45674900.html
http://qdzhiguan.com/anews/31937708.html
http://hawayspe.com/anews/07099278.html
http://jngangli.com/anews/41816986.html
http://jnjykj.com/anews/27490257.html
http://jnmigu.net/anews/57090489.html
http://jnzcsy.com/anews/96931082.html
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http://m.jnshengjiang.com/anews/62209903.html
http://www.tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/00819177.html
http://sjwtcj.com/anews/97569059.html
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http://www.qdzhiguan.cn/anews/28884764.html
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http://www.hanangyaoye.com/anews/88453900.html
http://m.jnshengjiang.com/anews/76706701.html
http://www.guanjiehuojia.com/anews/46509596.html
http://can100.cn/anews/98695657.html
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http://www.jngangli.com/anews/08978533.html
http://jnhnpt.com/anews/49381614.html
http://www.jntgjx.com/anews/16018363.html
http://www.jnshengjiang.com/anews/34876587.html
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http://www.hawayspe.com/anews/10272944.html
http://www.jnjuli.com/anews/74804287.html
http://www.ok7s.com/anews/39027750.html
http://sfsjpt.com/anews/80547491.html
http://www.julisjj.com/anews/66551420.html
http://www.sdlysl.com/anews/33660279.html
http://www.sdzhiguan.net/anews/49363345.html
http://www.cleanworld.com.cn/anews/69813183.html
http://jnjuli.com/anews/17501779.html
http://guanjiehuojia.com/anews/19204780.html
http://cleanworld.com.cn/anews/20444312.html
http://www.ondsjpt.com/anews/59073378.html
http://www.longboyeya.cn/anews/68684712.html
http://can100.cn/anews/02076578.html
http://sdzhiguan.net/anews/44006486.html

写到最后，我想说一句很朴素的话

http://julisjj.com/anews/67725671.html
http://can100.cn/anews/48064483.html
http://chengtaifengji.com/anews/38763089.html
http://www.jnjykj.com/anews/42584731.html
http://jnhdsjjx.com/anews/45330506.html
http://www.longboyeya.cn/anews/76248253.html
http://sdjmyg.com/anews/78521788.html
http://www.sdjinshuo.cn/anews/20468534.html
http://en.qifenggroup.cn/anews/34076374.html
http://www.qdzhiguan.com/anews/69254995.html
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http://sdjmyg.com/anews/04922215.html
http://jndsyy.com/anews/06105062.html
http://qdzhiguan.com/anews/35847502.html
http://qifenggroup.cn/anews/01532796.html
http://en.qifenggroup.cn/anews/27371992.html
http://hawayspe.com/anews/47060608.html
http://jngangli.com/anews/45332880.html
http://www.yuangujixie.cn/anews/92101104.html
http://jnjykj.com/anews/59517002.html
http://www.chengtaifengji.com/anews/80079790.html
http://www.jndsyy.com/anews/16322778.html
http://jnmigu.net/anews/25572257.html
http://www.can100.cn/anews/66864676.html
http://www.jndsyy.com/anews/50594178.html
http://jntgjx.com/anews/75844548.html
http://www.ondsjpt.com/anews/00832562.html
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http://jnzcsy.com/anews/40387222.html
http://longboyeya.cn/anews/72724124.html
http://jnjuli.com/anews/12079560.html
http://www.qiangshengdiaosu.com/anews/10692183.html
http://jnhnpt.com/anews/98419623.html
http://qdzhiguan.cn/anews/92861635.html
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http://qdzhiguan.cn/anews/84247384.html
http://sdjinshuo.cn/anews/97301751.html
http://sfsjpt.com/anews/78558744.html
http://sjwtcj.com/anews/73506871.html
http://wz1.jnmigu.net/anews/97207149.html
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http://wu.jnmigu.net/anews/31337749.html
http://www.hawayspe.com/anews/03473067.html
http://m.jnshengjiang.com/anews/18757848.html
http://www.can100.cn/anews/51156047.html
http://jnhdsjjx.com/anews/98255118.html
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http://www.jngangli.com/anews/64190562.html
http://jnmigu.net/anews/80180133.html
http://qifenggroup.cn/anews/72954622.html
http://www.jntgjx.com/anews/70670757.html
http://www.jnshengjiang.com/anews/47091450.html
http://www.qifenggroup.cn/anews/07695585.html
http://www.julisjj.com/anews/10562682.html
http://jnhdsjjx.com/anews/91148248.html
http://www.jnzcsy.com/anews/94105289.html
http://qifenggroup.cn/anews/74124720.html
http://tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/00576790.html
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http://www.sdzhiguan.net/anews/79844958.html
http://www.jnzcsy.com/anews/39376983.html
http://www.qdzhiguan.com/anews/23898338.html
http://www.jnjykj.com/anews/87588054.html
http://www.sdjinshuo.cn/anews/74073937.html
http://www.sdjmyg.com/anews/20098662.html
http://www.ok7s.com/anews/71278407.html
http://guanjiehuojia.com/anews/46485514.html
http://guanjiehuojia.com/anews/62991615.html
http://jndsyy.com/anews/55808128.html
http://jngangli.com/anews/96986447.html
http://qiangshengdiaosu.com/anews/28459340.html
http://sdjmyg.com/anews/17988962.html
http://sdjinshuo.cn/anews/61435656.html
http://sjwtcj.com/anews/37411006.html
http://www.hawayspe.com/anews/31294549.html
http://sfsjpt.com/anews/84466470.html
http://wu.jnmigu.net/anews/11923974.html
http://www.tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/66972034.html
http://www.jnmigu.net/anews/64897181.html
http://www.can100.cn/anews/28870270.html
http://longboyeya.cn/anews/50045840.html
http://qifenggroup.cn/anews/79765052.html
http://julisjj.com/anews/31180985.html
http://wz1.jnmigu.net/anews/94686580.html
http://www.hanangyaoye.com/anews/37363016.html
http://jntgjx.com/anews/31038120.html
http://www.sdjmyg.com/anews/58500668.html
http://jnhdsjjx.com/anews/21218452.html
http://sdzhiguan.net/anews/97051375.html
http://www.jnmigu.net/anews/52414089.html
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http://hanangyaoye.com/anews/92692050.html
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http://en.qifenggroup.cn/anews/34023567.html
http://hawayspe.com/anews/82963192.html
http://www.tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/69144127.html
http://www.sdlysl.com/anews/83392233.html
http://can100.cn/anews/92535833.html
http://www.cleanworld.com.cn/anews/74680630.html
http://www.sfsjpt.com/anews/72112183.html
http://www.can100.cn/anews/08513163.html
http://www.sjwtcj.com/anews/88261630.html
http://sdzhiguan.net/anews/38420751.html
http://www.yuangujixie.cn/anews/85320260.html
http://www.jnmigu.net/anews/66972862.html
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http://www.yuangujixie.cn/anews/78695461.html
http://www.qiangshengdiaosu.com/anews/42112252.html
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http://www.chengtaifengji.com/anews/05735716.html
http://www.sjwtcj.com/anews/14051530.html
http://yuangujixie.cn/anews/57414422.html
http://yuangujixie.cn/anews/72281203.html
http://www.jngangli.com/anews/73352836.html
http://ondsjpt.com/anews/02128543.html
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http://www.ondsjpt.com/anews/04820813.html
http://www.qdzhiguan.cn/anews/62888856.html
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http://can100.cn/anews/12676382.html
http://www.ok7s.com/anews/43841968.html
http://cdnscb.net.gw.wwaw.jnmigu.net/anews/08537331.html
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http://www.qdzhiguan.cn/anews/51580490.html
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http://jnshengjiang.com/anews/31567341.html
http://jntgjx.com/anews/02520418.html
http://chengtaifengji.com/anews/73061981.html
http://ondsjpt.com/anews/74677570.html
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http://www.jntgjx.com/anews/06214572.html
http://longboyeya.cn/anews/71550672.html
http://cleanworld.com.cn/anews/70238164.html
http://ondsjpt.com/anews/44647942.html
http://jnzcsy.com/anews/35328207.html
http://www.jnjykj.com/anews/38356080.html
http://www.julisjj.com/anews/84976488.html
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http://qiangshengdiaosu.com/anews/63617197.html
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http://wu.jnmigu.net/anews/79329495.html
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http://www.chengtaifengji.com/anews/85761266.html
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http://www.longboyeya.cn/anews/59261877.html
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http://www.hawayspe.com/anews/52296793.html
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http://qdzhiguan.com/anews/87526092.html
http://www.sdzhiguan.net/anews/69973620.html
http://hanangyaoye.com/anews/15971824.html
http://www.can100.cn/anews/22977700.html
http://cdnscb.net.gw.wwaw.jnmigu.net/anews/89590534.html
http://chengtaifengji.com/anews/56544542.html
http://www.tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/57672949.html
http://wz1.jnmigu.net/anews/65195442.html
http://tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/93398135.html
http://guanjiehuojia.com/anews/72666594.html
http://cleanworld.com.cn/anews/61426181.html
http://www.jnzcsy.com/anews/09477004.html
http://www.sjwtcj.com/anews/47394364.html
http://jnhnpt.com/anews/51907412.html
http://yuangujixie.cn/anews/10054504.html
http://qdzhiguan.cn/anews/13245878.html
http://www.jnjuli.com/anews/82942837.html
http://jnhdsjjx.com/anews/35208611.html
http://www.jntgjx.com/anews/18603812.html
http://sdjinshuo.cn/anews/95468398.html
http://www.hanangyaoye.com/anews/97346785.html
http://www.jndsyy.com/anews/04566918.html
http://julisjj.com/anews/02909647.html
http://www.jnjuli.com/anews/31729606.html
http://longboyeya.cn/anews/41109325.html
http://julisjj.com/anews/53441160.html
http://sdjmyg.com/anews/27980560.html
http://www.guanjiehuojia.com/anews/54257037.html
http://www.sdjinshuo.cn/anews/54688141.html
http://en.qifenggroup.cn/anews/99591456.html
http://en.qifenggroup.cn/anews/16695230.html
http://www.jnhdsjjx.com/anews/46077374.html
http://www.jndsyy.com/anews/79842024.html
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http://hanangyaoye.com/anews/73954151.html
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http://sdjinshuo.cn/anews/71172598.html
http://www.sdlysl.com/anews/59508156.html
http://www.qifenggroup.cn/anews/45779227.html
http://www.chengtaifengji.com/anews/00431473.html
http://qdzhiguan.cn/anews/70826607.html
http://guanjiehuojia.com/anews/70781473.html
http://jnjykj.com/anews/74603194.html
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http://www.cleanworld.com.cn/anews/40959314.html
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http://tsjxwl.com.cn/anews/00227444.html
http://www.longboyeya.cn/anews/74159554.html
http://www.jnmigu.net/anews/74901090.html
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http://jnmigu.net/anews/70778352.html
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http://www.ok7s.com/anews/57068290.html
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炸小黄鱼最好吃的那一刻不是你闻到香的时候，是你咬下去那声脆响的时候。你要那声响，就把处理干净，腌制抓匀，糊调对，油温按步骤走，复炸按二十秒来。你家要是也有像我爸那样爱较真的长辈，拿这盘下酒菜一端上桌，他就会用筷子告诉你，差不多就对了。