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如果桌子上没有白切鸡的话,那么这顿饭就缺少了主要角色。

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但是同样是这道菜,在北方人的餐桌上,估计十个人里有八个的筷子是不动的。经过一番思考之后我发现这件事很有趣。



1、关于烹饪方法的不同看法。

广东白切鸡最突出的特点就是无鸡不成席,用清水煮沸后搭配调料食用,这样就可以品尝到鸡肉本身所散发出来的美味了。这是因为岭南人民对于食物有着很高的信赖程度,并不是要用调味品去弥补它的不足。

北方人则不同了,他们的逻辑和南方人正好相反。东北的小鸡炖蘑菇、新疆的大盘鸡、陕西的辣子鸡,每一道都放了很多油和调料,香味可以飘得很远,对于北方人来说,鸡肉本身味淡,需要靠调味品才能使之变美味。

其实这并不是一种偏见,而是一种两种截然不同食物文化之间的较量。



2、气候决定了舌头的偏好。

广东省一年的平均气温在22℃左右,潮湿炎热的气候使得人们自然而然地喜欢上清淡的食物。白切鸡加上姜葱蘸酱吃掉不会上火也不容易吃饱肚子,身体很舒服。

北方的冬天可以达到零下二三十摄氏度左右,人的身体就会不自觉地产生一种需求高能量和辛辣味食物以抵御寒冷的需求。一道白斩鸡摆上桌来的时候,并不是很好吃的样子,但是在心里还是觉得它不如其他菜肴好吃一些。

曾经在广州居住了5年的一位来自东北的朋友告诉我,在头2年里他很难接受白切鸡的味道,感觉像是没有煮透一样。直到夏天非常炎热的时候才渐渐体会到它的清香与清淡的好处。



3、那层粉红色让多少人胆怯了呢?

白切鸡最大的问题就是骨头旁边有一层白色的物质,这是由于鸡肉还没有完全成熟所造成的,在南方的人看来这是正常的现象,因为此时的鸡肉最为鲜美;而在北方则会感觉这只鸡没有煮熟。

这样的担心并不过分。传统的北方烹饪重视熟透为止,炖肉要炖得骨头和肉可以轻松分开,烧鸡更是要把筷子一插就会掉下来才肯罢休。见到带血的鸡肉就会产生一种不适的感觉而不会去食用它。

还有一个数据可以说明这一点:广东省内的清远鸡、湛江鸡在当地可以卖到六七块钱一斤,但是运到北方的市场上之后的价格就会降到最低,因为买的很少。



4、北方和南方蘸料文化之间的差异。

白切鸡好吃不好吃的一半功劳要归功于蘸料。广东人做蘸料也是有一手的,沙姜、葱油、酱油等调料的比例都有自家的独门配方 。

北方人的餐桌上并没有蘸料的文化,吃饺子放点醋、涮羊肉加点芝麻酱就差不多了,要是给一个北方人端上来一片白切鸡,并且给你提供三四个种不同的蘸料让他挑选的话,那么他多半会一脸茫然地说:这个东西怎么吃呢?

最丢脸的一次经历就是几个来自东北的出差人员来到广州,在这里点了一道叫做白切鸡的菜之后大家都无语了,于是就把这道菜蘸上了辣椒酱一起吃掉了——厨师都在厨房里都要哭了。



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