9月到，黄瓜丝瓜靠边站，尝尝这3种黄金菜，营养好吃还不贵

天凉了，菜市场一换季，最先变脸的就是那些不经放的菜。黄瓜开始发空，丝瓜老得像柴火棍，买回家再便宜也白搭。真正该盯住的，是玉米、板栗、莲藕、芋头、南瓜这一挂，黄澄澄、白生生、粉乎乎，看着就有秋天那股实在劲儿。

这篇说的主心骨很清楚，秋天买菜别跟风，得跟着节气走。秋季气温转凉，人的食欲会慢慢上来，脾胃也更容易喜欢那些颜色偏黄、口感偏软糯、容易消化的食材。民间常说秋吃黄，身体康，讲的就是这个路数。黄颜色食材里，玉米有粗纤维，莲藕水分足，南瓜有胡萝卜素，板栗和芋头顶饿又顶饱，都是老百姓餐桌上最不花哨、却最管用的好东西。

菜市场里，真正会过日子的人，一到九月就开始换篮子里的内容。黄瓜丝瓜不是不能吃，是这个时候的口感和营养状态都开始走下坡路了。反过来看，玉米、莲藕、南瓜这些秋菜，甜味更足，淀粉更稳，做熟以后香气也更足。山东人吃饭讲究一个扎实，图的不是摆盘，是吃完心里踏实，肚里舒服。

说到这儿，咱就别空谈了，直接上硬菜。先说玉米炒莲藕，这道菜看着就精神，黄白搭在一起，家里有孩子的，基本一上桌就得被盯上。水果玉米适合炒，甜口更明显，莲藕要选两头封得严实的，说明里面比较干净。莲藕这个东西，2024年中国莲藕种植面积和消费都挺稳定，湖北、江苏、浙江、山东不少地方都在产，秋天上市场，价格不算离谱，家常做正合适。

做法也不复杂。玉米粒掰下来，别剁得太碎，颗粒感得留着。莲藕去皮切丁，比玉米粒大一圈，吃起来才有脆劲儿。锅里水烧开，玉米粒和藕丁一起焯两分钟，捞出来沥干。很多人做这一步图省事，直接下锅炒，结果藕发黑、玉米出水，盘子里一汪汤，吃着就没意思了。焯一下，颜色亮，口感也更稳。

锅里放油，蒜末一爆香，喜欢微辣的丢两个小米辣进去，厨房立马有味儿了。玉米和藕丁倒进去，大火快炒，盐、蚝油跟上，翻几下就能出锅。这里最怕久炒，时间一长，藕丁不脆，玉米也发面，等于把秋天的脆劲儿给炒没了。这菜成本真不高，按菜市场价算，五块钱上下就能整一盘，孩子筷子一动，老父亲在旁边都得跟着多扒拉两口。

再说板栗烧排骨，这个一听就知道是秋天的脾气。板栗刚下树时，糖分足，粉糯里带甜，和排骨凑一块，属于典型的一个管香，一个管肉。板栗在中国人餐桌上出现得很早，唐宋时期就有不少关于糖炒栗子、栗子羹的记载，到了北方人家里，更是秋冬常备。它不光是零嘴，还是能进菜、能顶饱的硬食材。

这道菜最省心的做法，不是红烧锅里咕嘟，而是上锅蒸。排骨买肋排，让摊主剁小块，回家洗净血水，不用非得焯得干干净净，稍微控一控就行。腌料按这个来，两勺生抽，一勺老抽，一勺蚝油，一小勺盐焗鸡粉，没有就换五香粉，再来一勺淀粉，抓匀腌半小时。板栗剪十字口，开水烫两分钟，趁热扒皮。

然后把板栗和排骨一起码进深盘子，上蒸锅，水开后大火蒸45分钟。这个时间别偷懒，少了不脱骨，多了板栗容易碎。蒸出来以后，排骨滑嫩，板栗吸满肉汁，筷子一夹就能断，嘴里先是肉香，后头跟着一股栗子的甜粉味。这样的菜，最适合家里人下班晚、孩子写作业、老人等饭的时候来上一盘，不用守灶台，锅一上就去忙别的，省事得很。

有人总觉得板栗发胖，吃一口就得长肉，这话说得有点偏。板栗确实淀粉不低，热量比一般蔬菜高，但它跟油炸零食不是一回事。按中国食物成分表的数据，板栗每100克可食部分能量不算低，可它的脂肪含量很低，换句话说，吃的是扎实，不是油腻。只要一顿别往死里吃，拿它顶主食的一部分，照样稳稳当当。

再看素炒南瓜丝，这个是我特别爱在家里做的一道。南瓜要选嫩的，皮薄肉脆，老南瓜不适合切丝，切出来容易烂，炒完像糊糊。南瓜本身的营养也很实在，国家食品成分数据里，南瓜富含β胡萝卜素，维生素A前体不少，秋天吃点，对眼睛、对皮肤都不赖。老人孩子都能吃，口感还温和。

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http://m.52qcw.cn/Article/details/5197297.sHtML做法也简单得很。南瓜洗干净，不用削皮，先切薄片再切丝，比火柴棍粗一点就行。切好后放碗里，撒一勺盐抓匀，腌五分钟，再冲掉盐分，挤干水。这一步不能省，不然一下锅就出汤，炒到最后变成南瓜水泡饭。锅里油稍微多一点，蒜末爆香，青红辣椒丝也丢进去煸一下，颜色立马就立住了。南瓜丝下锅，全程大火快炒，两分钟左右，等它刚刚变软还带点脆劲儿时，加一点盐，淋半勺生抽，翻匀出锅。

这盘菜的妙处就在一个清字。南瓜本来就带甜味，不用放太多调料，越简单越能吃出秋天那股清爽。家里要是有不爱吃南瓜的小孩，先别急着下结论，有时候不是他不吃，是做法没对路。炒成丝以后，口感变得利落，拌米饭也行，配粥也行，比蒸南瓜那种软塌塌的吃法更容易入口。

秋天买菜，很多人爱图便宜，看到黄瓜丝瓜还剩一堆，就一股脑往袋子里装。说实话，这种买法像赶集抢最后一锅汤，看着热闹，回家一做就知道不对劲。应季菜有应季菜的道理，气温变了，人的胃口和消化状态也跟着变，老祖宗早就把这事儿摸透了。山东这边很多家庭，入秋以后都会慢慢把凉拌菜收一收，把炒菜、蒸菜、炖菜提上来，锅气一上来，人也跟着舒坦。

这三道菜放一桌，颜色就齐了，黄的玉米、白的莲藕、褐红的排骨、金黄的南瓜，桌上看着就有秋收那味儿。再配一碗米饭，或者来点小米粥，家里老人吃着不费牙，孩子吃着不挑，做饭的人也不至于在厨房里累得满头汗。咱山东爷们儿讲究的就是这个，花钱不多，架势不能小，吃得香，家里人高兴，比啥都强。

菜市场的摊位一换，日子也跟着换了样。这个时候去逛菜场，别老盯着那几样看着水灵的夏菜，往黄澄澄、粉糯糯、脆生生的摊子前面站一站，手里那点买菜钱，能买回来的不只是菜，还有一桌子安稳的烟火气。黄瓜和丝瓜先放一边，玉米、板栗、莲藕、南瓜，才是秋天真正该往篮子里装的东西。